Ebook From the Jewish Heartland: Two Centuries of Midwest Foodways (Heartland Foodways), by Ellen F. Steinberg, Jack H. Prost
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From the Jewish Heartland: Two Centuries of Midwest Foodways (Heartland Foodways), by Ellen F. Steinberg, Jack H. Prost
Ebook From the Jewish Heartland: Two Centuries of Midwest Foodways (Heartland Foodways), by Ellen F. Steinberg, Jack H. Prost
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From the Jewish Heartland: Two Centuries of Midwest Foodways reveals the distinctive flavor of Jewish foods in the Midwest and tracks regional culinary changes through time. Exploring Jewish culinary innovation in America's heartland from the 1800s to today, Ellen F. Steinberg and Jack H. Prost examine recipes from numerous midwestern sources, both kosher and nonkosher, including Jewish homemakers' handwritten manuscripts and notebooks, published journals and newspaper columns, and interviews with Jewish cooks, bakers, and delicatessen owners.
With the influx of hundreds of thousands of Jews during the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries came new recipes and foodways that transformed the culture of the region. Settling into the cities, towns, and farm communities of Ohio, Indiana, Wisconsin, Michigan, Illinois, Missouri, Iowa, and Minnesota, Jewish immigrants incorporated local fruits, vegetables, and other comestibles into traditional recipes. Such incomparable gustatory delights include Tzizel bagels and rye breads coated in midwestern cornmeal, baklava studded with locally grown cranberries, dark pumpernickel bread sprinkled with almonds and crunchy Iowa sunflower seeds, tangy ketchup concocted from wild sour grapes, Sephardic borekas (turnovers) made with sweet cherries from Michigan, rich Chicago cheesecakes, native huckleberry pie from St. Paul, and savory gefilte fish from Minnesota northern pike.
Steinberg and Prost also consider the effect of improved preservation and transportation on rural and urban Jewish foodways, as reported in contemporary newspapers, magazines, and published accounts. They give special attention to the impact on these foodways of large-scale immigration, relocation, and Americanization processes during the nineteenth century and the efforts of social and culinary reformers to modify traditional Jewish food preparation and ingredients.
Including dozens of sample recipes, From the Jewish Heartland: Two Centuries of Midwest Foodways takes readers on a memorable and unique tour of midwestern Jewish cooking and culture.
- Sales Rank: #1788181 in eBooks
- Published on: 2011-06-01
- Released on: 2011-06-01
- Format: Kindle eBook
Review
"Recipes live lives just like people, with some ending up forgotten while others are lovingly remembered for generations. . . . Luckily, some recipes and their authors get rescued from dusty anonymity by curious cooks, history-loving food writers and culinary anthropologists like Ellen F. Steinberg and Jack H. Prost."--Chicago Tribune
"After delighting in the myriad tastes and traditions of Midwestern Jewry summoned up by this evocative book, readers will be much less likely reflexively to think New York when they encounter the delights of the delicatessen or savor a traditional Sabbath or other Jewish holiday dinner."--The Washington Times
"This is the first book to specifically address the history of Midwest Jewish cooking; it is a must-have for public and academic libraries in this area. Highly recommended."--Choice "The history is Interesting and written with clarity. . . . Many readers will want to turn the pages in search of the recipes for matzo cake, cheese pie, brandy peaches and gefilte fish. It all looks easy enough to try at home!"--Shepherd Express
"A specialized resource for scholars of Judaica and food-devotees alike, the book presents classics such as gefilte and matzos alongside lesser-known dishes. It is a sometimes nostalgic look at preserving authenticity while embracing creativity."--Publishers Weekly
"A fascinating overview of historic Jewish foodways throughout the Midwest, with many examples of recipes brought to the Midwest by Jewish immigrants. I know of no other work on Jewish American food with this concentration and breadth."--Joan Nathan, author of Jewish Cooking in America
About the Author
Ellen F. Steinberg is a writer, researcher, and anthropologist as well as the author of Learning to Cook in 1898: A Chicago Culinary Memoir. Born and raised in Chicago, she currently lives in River Forest, Illinois. Jack H. Prost is an associate professor of anthropology at the University of Illinois at Chicago. He has taught and written on the anthropology of cuisine and food taboos.
Most helpful customer reviews
1 of 1 people found the following review helpful.
An interesting history of Jewish folkways of the Midwest
By Larry Mark MyJewishBooksDotCom
I bought and read this book based on its cover. Who wouldn't be attracted to a menorah of ripe yellow corn? This is not a cookbook, nor a recipe book; it is an academic foodways book which is accessible to all of us.
It is dedicated to all the Midwestern grossmutters and nonas and bubbes who adapted their Jewish recipes and meals to middle American food sources. The book was influenced by the film, GEFILTE FISH, by Karen Silverstein, a documentary about three generations of one American Jewish family and how they differ in their preparation of gefilte fish, as well as the authors' acquisition of a 1910 St Louis Jewish cookbook on eBay.
Steinberg and Prost focus on how Jews arrived in the American Midwest (the point out that it wasn't called the Midwest yet) and innovated with local produce and foods. Breads used local ryes and were coated with cornmeal, baklava used local cranberries, dark pumpernickles were sprinkled with Iowa sunflower seeds and almonds, catsup was made with Michigan sour grapes, bourekas used Michigan cherries, and gefilte fish was made with Minnesota pike.
The book opens in 1761, when Ezekiel Solomon of Berlin survived a Native American massacre and opened a general store. Over the decades more Jewish traders settled in the Midwest. The authors paint an interesting picture of the difficult overland trips and foods of the settlers (horse meat and grass seed). After the American Civil War and the additional waves of immigration, with improved transportation and methods of food preservation, the authors show how Jews adapted and adopted foods. The authors discuss how the Progressive Era German Jews and social workers attempted to train the new Jewish immigrants in "American" foodways, and how cookbooks, such as the Fanny Farmer Cookbook of 1896 and the 1901 (Jewish) Settlement cookbooks standardized recipes and cooking methods. Tracking recipes over time, the authors show how brisket and beef a la mode recipes reduced their number of spices needed, perhaps as reactions to the changing duties and prices, the fear of bacteria, and the abandonment of "fancified French" styles. Fanny Farmer used only salt and pepper.
In terms of old Midwestern recipes, there are Matzophon (like matza brei but with milk); Rhodes-style Peskada con de Tomat, which uses Lake Michigan fish; pickled vegetables; Torshi; Uma Damla; Friscada; Pot Roasts, Potato Cake; Sweet and Sour Beans; Chow-Chow; pickles; Tomato Relish; Kuchen; Caramels; Matzos Charlotte; Brisket with Onions and Raisins; Persian Charoset; Red Horseradish Sauce; Potato Flour Sponge Cake; Fruit Cake; Prune Pie; Strauben (Dough Nuts); Mock Strudel; Blintz Batter; Borekas; Hucklebery Pie (Huckleberries were very popular); and various styles of pie crusts (graham, crumb). Reading the sparse, abbreviated recipes takes you back to a time when everything was made from scratch, and women had to cook, clean and maintain homes with eight or more children.
As they sang in Yiddish:
Zuntik - bulbes, Montik - bulbes!
Dinstik uhn Mitvoch - Bulbes!
Dohnershtik uhn Fraytik - Bulbes!
Ober Shabbes nokhn tsholnt a bulbe kigele!
Uhn Zuntik vayter Bulbes.
(Sunday - Potatoes, Monday - potatoes, Tuesday and Wednesday Potatoes. Thursday and Friday, Potatoes, But the treat on Shabbos is a potato kugel, And Sunday, once again, potatoes.)
Luckily the recipes and stories that are included show that life was not just potatoes.
1 of 1 people found the following review helpful.
Anthropology of Jewish Foods in the American Midwest from the frontier to the present
By Trent D. Pendley
Anthropologists Ellen F. Steinberg and Jack H. Prost have jointly collaborated and published an important work on the evolution of Jewish recipes in the American Midwest. A religious culture with strict dietary restrictions for the observant element of this community was challenged when early settlers arrived on the frontier. Jewish recipes brought over from the old world both kosher and non-kosher were adapted to accommodate local food sources and continued to evolve from the age of locally grown food sources to mass produced stock for grocery stores. Steinberg and Prost together have amassed a collection of personal vintage recipies from auction houses and elsewhere and have made good detective work tracking down the history of the women who penned these personal notebooks for favorite recipes. They share some of that detective work in this publication. Their erudition on Jewish cooking sorts out the source of some of the handwritten recipes and from those that originated in European Jewries that were located along the old spice routes as well as if they are Ashkenazi (German) or Sephardic (Spanish or Portuguese).
Most interesting was noting the evolution of the older recipes calling for goose fat which was more prevalent in the past and huckleberries over blueberries and the Victorian eras discouragement of spices which no doubt explains my mother's family's boring dishes. "From the Jewish Heartland" discusses that the American Midwest that was once the American West and amongst the many recipes are anecdotal histories of some of the earliest Jewish settlers and some rare accounts of their dietary habits. This is a culinary supplement to the Jewish histories of Indiana, Illinois, Minnesota, Missouri, Ohio and Wisconsin, most of what was once known as the Old Northwest. This is a volume in the series "Heartland Foodways" and an enjoyable read for anyone interested in understanding the evolution of American food traditions, ethnic cooking, and also life in the emerging Midwest.
1 of 1 people found the following review helpful.
Chock full of info, but low on recipes
By Jennifer L. Rinehart
Books about food are a recent phenomena for me. Cookbooks I get, they have recipes, pictures of the recipes, pictures of the tools used to create the recipes but a book just for talking about food, I can't get too jazzed about. Maybe I am not as much of a foodie as I thought.
That is problem number one for me, with very few recipes and many long and detailed discussions of particular ingredients, the stores available and the time period, well, frankly, I got a little bored.
There were a few recipes, Apple Kuchen, Sour Fish, Grape Katsup, Eingedampft Fleish, however many of these recipes seemed incomplete in their directions as they were very old and untested. But the odd foods people ate did give me a fascinating look into the eating habits of early Jews in the midwest. It's interesting to note that unlike the more unseasoned and 'pure' foods that were more in vogue at the time, Jewish cookery was full of spices and complex flavors, one could even say that their cooking traditions, full of onions, fresh herbs and slow braising is at the root of some of the better American food traditions.
The authors did a remarkable job tracking down recipes from not only families and family run businesses but women's magazines, newspapers and old family recipe books. The amount of information they found is startling and gives the reader a birds eye view into the changing lives of immigrant families.
Some of the more intriguing aspects of the book are the philosophy of the table as espoused by Charles de Saint-Evremond, that spices and strong foods ruin the palate. The Victorians viewed spiciness as an indulgance, like drinking too much or fornicating too vigorously, spices were to be taken in minute amounts, the less the better. Indeed indigestion was viewed as causing criminal behavior.
The history of spices and the American diet's lack of them can be traced back along a fascinating history of social reforms and immigration. This part of the book I found especially interesting, not just for it's absurdity linking the ingestion of spices to ill health, but because of the political nature of eating and who ate what.
Upton Sinclair said, "I aimed at the public's heart and by accident I hit them in the stomach," on the response his book, The Jungle, made on society. So a lot of reforms, a lot of new science on things like hygiene and safe food preparation and it's all here, in this book.
I guess I should offer a warning, if you are hoping for a book of recipes, don't buy this book, there aren't so many recipes in here, what there is is a detailed history of eating in America and the Jewish immigrants part in creating some of our most treasured food traditions.
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